It's been many times I was asked "What should I do regarding gearbox when swapped my car with more powerful and newer engine? This question arises to all Golf mk2, in some cases Golf mk3 or Passat owners when doing conversions. Other major circumstance is that 02A and 02J gearboxes when changing gears are operated using cable shifter. In this particular topic I'll assume we're talking about 4 cylinder engine and any 02J gearbox it came with. Since major differences are known, probably next question which comes to the head is Why would I convert to 02A or 02J?
You may combine 20v engine with an old gearbox surely, but I would not recommend doing it. Changes and upgrades ahead are not so tiny I must admit, but trust me, it's worth the effort.
Benefits you gonna get are:. Some of tiny disadvantages:. On the list of disadvantages I did not mention a fabrication needed to fit everything and make it work :D That's the reason I made this how-to. Since you know the way it's not hideous anymore. Remove an old shifter and linkage. Take a pedal box and try to "install" clutch pedal cylinder to visualize where it should be located. That's an important moment as you must obtain place very precisely. If this is not granted you gonna kink cylinders pushrod what will cause difficulties to press pedal smoothly.
When you source pedal box it won't have a flange needed to bolt clutch cylinder to. Just take a glance to how pedal box came in:. A flange. You need to fabricate it. I won't describe measurements I did, but I honestly suggest you to do multiple measurements and multichecks so you can press clutch easily and nicely. I've seen few examples where lads fitted cylinder straight to firewall.
Cylinder becomes bolted separately from pedal box. Firewall sheet is very thin and when you apply force by foot required to press cylinder - it starts twist with an entire firewall.How to Remove and replace transmission DSG DFM dual mass flywheel remove and replace R \u0026 R TDI vw
As an outcome cylinder changes it's angle and brings problems using it. I strongly suggest to use more robust construction. In example I do represent everything comes tightened in one piece, I would say like a bunch of five. BTW I used 2mm thick metal sheet.
Regarding flange you should end with something what looks like:.Passats are really nice cars, and the solid feel of a manual trans really makes them nice. This Passat Tdi came from Canada for me to convert to manual trans.
This is what this customer chose to do. There was nothing wrong with his trans. We have done over 20 of these conversions.
You can have confidence that it will be done right! First things first…. It had been rebuilt at some point. The old auto shifter needed to come out also. Heres a pic of the auto shifter and shifter cable from under the car. Passat manual transmissions have a fairly simple shifter assembly with a solid linkage. Here the pic. The following pic is from under the with the trans removed near the rack.
The hole is filled with a plug on automatic cars and the plug has a hole for the clutch line to pass through on manual cars. You can see the rubber grommet that fills the hole on the clutch line in the following pic. This line goes behind the brake booster and you have to remove the brake booster to put it in. Very tight in there to remove the bolts. IIRC we just loosened the lines on the master and swung it out of the way and then tightened the lines back up to limit them amount of air that was introduced.
We had this out bunch of times figuring out how things go. We ended up putting the original brake pedal assembly back in after swapping it with the new one we got from Europe, because the holes for the clutch and brake switches were different. We added the clutch pedal portion to the existing brake pedal assembly and changed the brake pedal. I think we could have done this without pulling the brake pedal assembly.
It helps to disconnect one end of the steering column to flex it out of the way to make it easier. Just remember to not turn the steering wheel. You can see the hole slots for the clutch and brake switches on the auto pedal assembly.
Transmission, 02J Mk4 1.8T Rebuilt [$300.00 CORE]
The ones on the pedal assembly from europe were different. I would assume this was due to a year difference but dont know at this point. Turned out later that this is what we had to do anyway. See electrical notes. The subframe is different between manual and auto transmissions.Forums New posts Search forums. Media New media New comments Search media. Resources Latest reviews Search resources. Members Current visitors New profile posts Search profile posts.
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I would like to do the rear main and oil pan gasket along with oil and filter. I plan on new clutch and related parts when it goes out. I have a complete donor car for all the other parts. Can I just swap out the power steering from the donor? I see people use a coupler on the transmission cooler line. Can I just use the manual coolant lines? Id like to edit this post and compile part numbers and such to have a definitive guide.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. If you have the dual mass clutch you may not need the alignment tool unless you took it apart. If you only took out the center bolts that attach it to the crank the alignment should be OK. When I got my DMF clutch assembly it was totally assembled. I also ordered the flywheel locking tool.
Yes, all the parts on the manual will swap over to the auto and you'll need the ac line also. Not sure if you've had it evacuated, but it's a good idea. It'll save you some money if you can get it fine by a shop and they'll be able to put it back in so you don't have to buy it.
So it seems like apart from the usual tranny stuff, I need ac lines, power steering line and coolant hoses? Yes, that's about right for the engine compartment. I was able to make the auto power steering line clear the shift selector on mine by bending it a little. Last edited: Jun 21, If you do open the AC system you will need a new dryer and o-rings. I would hook up the old one for the trip to where you get the system evacuated and charged.
Thread starter redneckaggie Start date Jun 4, I have searched all over and even used google advanced to search the site and I now know that the 01m to 02j swap has been done many times with good results.
However since the 01m is electronically controlled what wiring will I need from the golf to control the auto in the beetle? And even still will swapping the ecu's work because I have heard that the clusters are vin specific. This might be the worst idea ever. Any chance you could use a O9A instead?
I already have the 01m and 02j, the 01m works flawlessly right now. Are you saying it is the worst idea because of the complication of wiring them or because of the bad rep of the 01m. Also I am new to vw's but not to mechanic work so you guys might have to spell out the acronyms. I am a cnc maintenance tech so I deal with plc's, electronics, and mechanical on a daily basis.
There are a bunch of wiring harnesses that go with the 01m that tie into the ecu and various relays under the dash.
There is a complete other computer that needs to be connected to the transmission, called the tcu.
02j Gearbox Codes
No need to swap ecu or cluster. The ecu is simple to reprogram with vcds but that is the least of your worries. Not saying it can't be done but it will be a LOT of hassle to put a failure prone transmission into a car with a perfectly good 02j. Sent from my rotary dial phone. It would be a nightmare of a job.
Best not to even consider it. Sent by smoke signal. What you need to start with is a Bentley manual.
It will show you everything. But you will really, really need to source an auto that isn't the 01m.Note this is for the TDI only, the 1. This is my first instructable, Thanks to everyone who voted for me in the Epilog Challenge!
I don't think I'm going to win, but hey it's not a bad try! Who is this for? It's for the budget conscious, or for the green, or for those who want a little more power. Notable DIfferences The automatic has a different: Coolant pipe Power steering line Injection Pump Axles Transmission Computer the manual doesn't have any wires, other than the speed sensor and the reverse switch Transmission Duh!
Shift Linkage Duh! Clutch Pedal Starter Wiring Harness Duh! Park Neutral Relay. Since there are all of these differences, we're not going to use the transmission, transmission computer, axles, Starter, chunks of the wiring harness, park neutral relay, and probably a bunch of other stuff that was left out just because we're a bit lazy, or didn't take that photo We're going to adapt the existing harness for clutch cancel, cruise, and reverse switch later on What we need Electrical: "53" relay horn relay Red 3M crimp butt connectors Reverse switch should come with the transmission Clutch Switches there are two on the clutch pedal, make sure you get the two brackets Mechanical: Shift Linkage, complete with shift boot and shift knob, there are two boot types, so it might take two tries before you've got it right Clutch Pedal Transmission from a TDI if yours is a 2.
Continuity meter normal VOM will work 30mm 12 point socket. First things first, don't try this unless you've got a flat area, jack stands, wheel chocks, and some help! Jack the car up, support it, and chock the wheels remove both front tires Have someone step on the brakes while you complete the following: Remove the 30mm 12 point nuts holding on the axles to the wheel hubs.
Remove the M10 or M12 bolts holding the axles to the transmission Start removing the axles: Remove the 16mm bolt from the front of the A arm to the sway bar, and move it out of the way Use a Three arm puller or axle shaft removal tool to push the axle out of the hub, then turn the wheel one way or the other to remove both axles.
Remove the Starter Remove both upper bolts from the top of the transmission Support the engine with an engine support Remove the two Transmission mount bolts 18mm bolts Remove the lower transmission mount, this can be a pain, but it will help facilitate the removal of the transmission greatly.
Rotate the engine and transmission slightly forward using a screwjack between the engine and the subframe the car comes with one in the trunk. A "The Widowmaker Jack" Place transmission Jack under transmission Remove the four lower transmission bolts Remove transmission yeah, I make it sound easy! Prep the block! Remove the flexplate and the dust tins on the engine Remove the Shift linkage: Remove three bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo Remove two 13mm bolts holding it to a cross member Loosen two 17mm nuts holding a pipe clamp in place.
Slide pipe clamp to the rear of the car sometimes this requires a hammer Remove the downpipe from the car Remove the Front Heat Sheild from the bottom of the car to expose the Shifter assembly.I love doing these conversions, but your 01M can be fixed! Either way, I can help you solve the problem with your beloved car.
But I do not recommend the switch to an automatic. They not only have less power and mileage, but the engine, brakes, starter, etc. All the conversions I have ever done were from automatic to stick except for one, and that was for an amputee. Autostick Semi-Automatic to Standard manual transmission conversion process. Well, I knew it would happen someday.
I didn't really expect it a week after I finally.
VW Beetle Golf Jetta Automatic to 5 Speed Swap
Brian Hague a. The original forum topic is here This is a document showing how to swap an 01M to a 02J transmission in a Volkswagen Jetta or Golf. Can someone honestly tell me what i can really lanchadirectly.pw The brake pedal for the automatic will need to be replaced with a complete manual brake and clutch installation. On a rear-drive vehicle, the drive shaft may also need to be replaced. A separate bell housing, clutch mechanism and hydraulic or manual clutch mechanism will be needed and, finally, a shifter and linkage.
Its the transmission that should have been on our engines. Now that I have done the auto to manual swap using the 6 speed, I have another 6 speed sitting in my shop ready to go into my 5 speed bug. Its that good. Automatic transmission was never available as an option, but there was a 3 speed semi-automatic or "Auto-stick".
The semi-auto beetles have no clutch pedal, but you still have to move the gear stick to change gears. I was hoping to use VCDS and recode the current ecu to manual and clear the missing tcu. I have the manual ecu from the donor vehicle, but would like to use the current ecu that is in the vehicle now so I would not have to redo the immobilizer when or if I have to put in the manual. I know that I need a different 5th gear so it lowers the rpms and so on.
This filter removes dirt, dust, and other contaminants from the automatic transmission fluid to minimize wear inside the system. Passats are really nice cars, and the solid feel of a manual trans really makes them nice. Picture of mm and 90mm axles. The mm is on top and 90mm is the bottom one. If it is a classic Beetle, I am not sure if there was an automatic option available. Maybe in the later Mexico cars. They are simple and cheap to work on, a competent hobbyist could do the swap in ther lanchadirectly.pwers: 1.
The automatic was getting weaker by the day and with a 3 day weekend coming up I decided it was time to swap the automatic transmission for a manual.It is an electronically controlled transmission with a lockup torque converterusing planetary gears, clutch packs, and a gear-driven final drive with an open-differential. There is no chain inside this transmission. It does not have provision for a dipstick.
It was determined that a dipstick and fill might invite owners to introduce incorrect or inferior fluid. The transmission has an oil-to-liquid cooler mounted on top of the transmission. Some areas of failure on this transmission include leaks in the oil filling tube by removing the cap incorrectly, damage to plastic internals due to fluid over-temperature conditions, leaks in the transmission oil cooler, internal fluid pressure leaks from torn piston diaphragms, worn piston bores for solenoids in aluminum valve body, and the resulting worn clutches and bands.
Occasionally, the plastic speedometer drive gear will break and fall off of the differential carrier and the speedometer will stop working. To repair this, the transmission must be removed and the differential disassembled far enough to replace the plastic gear.
The additional resistance may prevent the computer from reading the faint pulses from the transmission speed sensors. Any sulfated connector and missing sensor signal causes the transmission to go to "fail safe" or "limp" mode. This mode keeps the transmission in Third gear and the gear indicator in the instrument panel indicates all gears are selected simultaneously. If replacing this transmission with a new or used transmission, pay special attention to the transmission code.
The code is a three character code stamped in a pad just above the starter flange. This transmission was available in several gear ratios for different engines and vehicles, so it's important to get a transmission with the same code or another code known to be the same gear ratios.
If the gear ratios are not the same the transmission controller will assume the transmission is slipping and go into fail safe mode. The 01M transmission is a specialized transmission used only on Volkswagen vehicles, although very similar to the ones used on Renault vehicles. As a result, most local transmission shops or national chains won't have specific training, knowledge and equipment to test and re-machine vital parts of this transmission.
This may result in several teardowns under warranty to get an acceptable result, if possible at all. The transmission fluid is checked from underneath the vehicle while running and the transmission in park.
Once running, the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission oil pan is removed with a 5mm allen wrench. Some fluid will drip out whether oil level is full or low. There is a plastic stack in the hole, similar to a chimney, which keeps all the fluid from running out. This stack maintains the proper level at the proper temperature. If the fluid is "glugging" or just barely running out the bottom hole when the temperature of the transmission is in the range of 95FF, no further action is needed.
Reinstall drain plug and put fill cap back on. If no fluid comes out, fill the transmission with specified fluid a little at a time until fluid is observed "glugging" or just barely running out the hole in the bottom.
No further action is needed. Install drain plug and fill tube cap.